About Salemi: The 'Eye of Sicily'
Thinking of coming to Salemi?
This town has been getting attention through the 1 Euro House program and the BBC television show 'Alan and Amanda'.
We've already written about the different services and amenities of Salemi; the purpose of this post is to help you learn about the town itself.
Amazing Location
Salemi's biggest asset is where it is:
- 45 mins drive from the airport
- 35 mins drive from beaches to the North and South
- 25 mins drive to Castelvetrano (where you go to buy major items)
- Quick drive to major cities of the west - Trapani, Marsala, Marzara del Vallo and Sciacca
- Right on a major highway
As the 'Eye of Sicily' (Occhio di Sicilia) it has incredible access to all the major features of Western Sicily.
In short, Salemi is probably the best town to base yourself from if you're visiting Western Sicily. The biggest 'drawback' for beach lovers is that no, you won't be right on a beach. For everyone else, it's perfect.
More Than 3000 Years of History
Salemi is a very historical place. As the locals will remind you, Salemi is older than Rome - much older. In fact, a nearby archeological site was abandoned in roughly 1000 B.C. You can see remnants of the site - called 'Mokarta' - including ceramics and jewellery, in a local museum in the heart of town.
Sicily has spent more or less its entire modern history under the dominion of one conqueror or the other and Salemi is no exception.
There is a large Norman castle (c. 1077AD) in the centre of town, which plays host to local events and a small museum.
We recommend climbing up the tower to see almost all of Western Sicily spread before you, hence the nickname 'Eye of Sicily' ('Occhio di Sicilia').
First Italian Capital
Here's a special fact: did you know that Salemi was the first town in the whole of Italy to fly the Italian flag!
I'm sure you didn't, but now you do!
In 1860, when the historical leader Garibaldi was attempting to unite Italy, he invaded Sicily. Salemi was the first town that he took. Enthusiastically welcomed by the locals, he proceeded to hoist the Il Tricolore over the Norman Castle, where it has proudly flown since. At this point, Salemi became the capital of Italy - a title it held for just 24 hours.
Surprisingly, the Salemitani (people from Salemi) don't put much emphasis on this. This is because, over time, it has been revealed that Garibaldi's behaviour towards many local townspeople didn't live up to the hype.
Garibaldi's army, as the local telling goes, was brutal. The local populace may have been welcoming at first, but many of them ended up being murdered in cold blood. Garibaldi's forces also cleaned out all the gold from the local reserves - those of Salemi and all surrounding towns.
Not something that one would celebrate.
Devastation in the Earthquakes of 1968
The event that has most shaped modern Salemi, and the surrounding Belice Valley, is without a doubt the 1968 Earthquakes.
Many towns in the area were completely destroyed or abandoned, but Salemi managed to survive - but only just. Nearly 50% of the homes in Salemi were destroyed and rendered uninhabitable.
Following significant post-quake investment, Salemi is now surrounded by a rather large 'new town'. However, the old town - which is much more pleasant, in our opinion - has been significantly restored. (Some areas are still completely destroyed, though.)
However, the locals prefer to live in the new town as the houses are more spacious, airy and easier to maintain.
1 Euro Program
According to local lore, Salemi was the very first town in the whole of Italy to launch a 1 Euro House program.
Prominent Mayor Vittorio Sgarbi - who was an outsider - put the program into motion, attracting worldwide attention.
15 years later, there is little sign of the impact of the project. Of the small community of expats, none of them bought their house for 1 Euro - all have chosen to buy something more established.
More recently, the BBC has filmed their own show - Amanda and Alan's Italian Job - featuring Salemi.
So - Can I Buy a House for 1 Euro?
No, the 1 Euro House program is not currently operating in Salemi. However, you can buy affordable property that is in much better state than your typical 1 Euro House. It is common to buy a property and have cosmetically renovated and ready to live in, for 30-40kE.
Language - Do I Need to Learn Sicilian? Italian?
Sicilian dialect is common in Salemi. It is different enough to Italian, that even fluent Italians struggle to understand it.
However, everyone speaks Italian perfectly, so you'll be fine with whatever Italian you have learned.
There are very few fluent English speakers in the local population, so learning some Italian is critical to really enjoying your life here if you're planning on staying for a long time.